Buy a Car from Japanese Auctions Yourself — Turnkey Price in Rubles
You buy a car straight from Japanese auctions — on your own, but together with us. We calculate the turnkey price in rubles once the specs are confirmed and the auction price is known. We translate the auction sheet for free.
How does it work?
- You choose a carBrowse real lots from Japanese auctions: photos, mileage, grades and prices. Found a suitable one — open it.
- We calculate the turnkey priceWe estimate the final price in rubles — shipping and customs included — and translate the auction sheet for free, even a handwritten one.
- You buy through usYou pay a 100,000 ₽ advance and we bid on your behalf. You pay for the car itself only after you win the lot; the advance is refunded until the first bid is placed.
● A step-by-step calculation — you see what the price is made of● Free auction sheet translation, even a handwritten one● History check and our honest opinion
How to use
Choose the make and model of a Japanese car, refine the body type if needed, then press “Search”. The extra filters — year, mileage, grade, colour — help narrow the results down to relevant lots.
Availability of the car and the bidding terms are confirmed before the purchase.
How to read an auction sheet
Every car at a Japanese auction goes through an independent inspection and gets a sheet with a grade. Here is what the scores and marks mean — so you understand the real condition of the car before you buy.
Show the key: overall grade (S…R), interior A–E, body map
Overall car grade
The mileage and age below are a rough guide (they are not printed on the sheet and differ between auctions).
| S | A new or nearly new car, roughly under ~10,000 km, with no visible defects (often treated as a 6). |
|---|---|
| 6 | Practically new, roughly under ~30,000 km, minimal flaws. |
| 5 | Excellent condition, usually under ~50,000 km, barely visible signs of use. |
| 4.5 | Very good: light scratches and chips, generally clean and well kept. |
| 4 | Above average: small scratches, dents, minor repair possible. |
| 3.5 | The most common grade. Noticeable wear for its age, minor repair may be needed. |
| 3 | Many scratches and dents, worn interior. The car is roadworthy. |
| 2 | Poor condition, major damage, but roadworthy. |
| 1 | A special defect — most often a flooded car (the body has been in water). Roadworthy. |
| R / RA | There is a history of body repair (restoration). RA — light repair (otherwise the car may be like a 4.5), R — restored, condition varies. |
| 0 / *** / — | No grade: not roadworthy, withdrawn from sale or seriously damaged. Needs to be inspected in person. |
Interior grade
Usually an A–D scale; some auctions add E.
| A | Like new, no visible wear. |
|---|---|
| B | Good condition, minimal wear. |
| C | Wear for its age, small stains or a cigarette burn possible. |
| D | Heavy wear: burns, stains, tears, smell. Repair needed. |
| E | At some auctions — serious damage, reupholstery needed (not used everywhere). |
Body map — damage marks
A severity digit goes next to the letter: 1 — minor, 3 — major (sometimes 4 — very major, but not at every auction).
| A | Scratch (キズ). |
|---|---|
| U | Dent (凹み). |
| W | Traces of repair / a repainted panel (a “wave”). |
| S | Rust (サビ). |
| C | Corrosion. |
| P | A chip or paint defect. |
| B | A scratch together with a dent. |
| X | The part needs replacing. |
| XX | The part has already been replaced. |
| R | Repaired / repainted. |
| G | A chip or crack in the glass (飛び石). |
| Y | A crack (Y1–Y3 — by size). |
These marks are common conventions. Different auction houses (USS, TAA, JU, CAA) may differ slightly in the details, so always look at the actual inspection sheet of the lot you picked.